The Strait Of Magellan

Departure and crossing of the Atlantic

The Strait of Magellan cuts through the southern tip of South America connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean.

On 10 August 1519, the five ships under Magellan's command – Trinidad, San Antonio, Concepción, Victoria and Santiago – left Seville and descended the Guadalquivir River to Sanlúcar de Barrameda, at the mouth of the river. There they remained more than five weeks. Finally they set sail on 20 September.

King Manuel I ordered a Portuguese naval detachment to pursue Magellan, but Magellan avoided them. After stopping at the Canary Islands, Magellan arrived at Cape Verde, where he set course for Cape St. Augustine in Brazil. On 27 November the expedition crossed the equator; on 6 December the crew sighted South America.

As Brazil was Portuguese territory, Magellan avoided it and on 13 December anchored near present-day Rio de Janeiro. There the crew was resupplied, but bad conditions caused them to delay. Afterwards, they continued to sail south along South America's east coast, looking for the strait that Magellan believed would lead to the Spice Islands. The fleet reached Río de la Plata on 10 January 1520.

For overwintering Magellan established a temporary settlement called Puerto San Julian on March 30, 1520. On Easter (April 1 and 2) a mutiny broke out involving three of the five ship captains. Magellan took quick and decisive action. Luis de Mendoza, the captain of Victoria, was killed by a party sent by Magellan and the ship was recovered. Then, after Concepcion's anchor cable had been secretly cut, the ship drifted towards the well-armed Trinidad, and Concepcion's captain, de Quesada, and his inner circle surrendered. Juan de Cartagena, the head of the mutineers on the San Antonio subsequently gave up. Antonio Pigafetta reported that Gaspar Quesada, the captain of Concepcion, and other mutineers were executed, while Juan de Cartagena, the captain of San Antonio, and a priest named Padre Sanchez de la Reina were marooned on the coast. Most of the men, including Juan Sebastián Elcano were needed and forgiven.[16] Reportedly those killed were drawn and quartered and impaled on the coast; years later, their bones were found by Sir Francis Drake. There is a replica of the Victoria that can be visited in Puerto San Julian.
The Strait of Magellan cuts through the southern tip of South America connecting the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean.

                         I wish all my dear friends a Merry Christmas and Prosperous New Year

Proceeding to Mumbai for studies

I signed off the ship in September 1984. And, I applied to Lal Bahadur Shastri Nautical College in Bombay to continue my studies for my next exam which was the First Mates' Foreign Going.   It is now called the Class II certificate. Thereafter, I received a letter from the Ministry of Shipping in India informing me that I had been accepted. 
         
Lal Bahadur Shastri Nautical College is one of the best Nautical Colleges in the world.  It had some of the world’s best lecturers including, Capt. T.K. Joseph (Extra Master), Late Capt. S.S.S. Rewari (Extra Master) and Capt. H. Subramaniam, (Extra Master).

During the planning of our trip to Bombay, I contacted our dear friends, Jude and Judy, and requested them to find a place for us to dwell during our stay there. In response to my request, my friend had replied stating that an Officer attached to the Ministry of Finance had agreed to give one of his flats in Bombay to us on rent. It was very good news.

With the help of God, we had almost everything in place prior to our departure. We left Sri Lanka for Bombay, India in November 1984. On arrival at the Bombay Airport our friends were there to meet us. We were then taken to a hotel in Bandra where our friends had planned to put us up for the night. It was good to be back in Bombay. As, during days of sailing, I always felt that Bombay was my second home port. Now a married man, and my wife being around, my life in Bombay was a bit restricted. We met our friends Jude and Judy after about a year therefore, they gave us an update of all what was happening there.

                                   Entrance L.B.S. Nautical & Engineering College, Mumbai

    

                                                    L.B.S. College in Mumbai

1520 Mutiny on Magellan's Expedition

For overwintering, Magellan established a temporary settlement called Puerto San Julian on March 30, 1520. On Easter (April 1 and 2), a mutiny broke out involving three of the five ship captains. 

Magellan took quick and decisive action. Luis de Mendoza, the captain of Victoria, was killed by a party sent by Magellan, and the ship was recovered. After Concepcion's anchor cable had been secretly cut by his forces, the ship drifted towards the well-armed Trinidad, and Concepcion's captain de Quesada and his inner circle surrendered. 

Juan de Cartagena, the head of the mutineers on the San Antonio, subsequently gave up. Antonio Pigafetta reported that Gaspar Quesada, the captain of Concepcion, and other mutineers were executed, while Juan de Cartagena, the captain of San Antonio, and a priest named Padre Sanchez de la Reina were marooned on the coast. Most of the men, including Juan Sebastián Elcano, were needed and forgiven. Reportedly those killed were drawn and quartered and impaled on the coast; years later, their bones were found by Sir Francis Drake.

Mendoza’s assassination. From this site.

Though Magellan made an example of the leaders, he pragmatically spared about 40 others after keeping them in chains and working the pumps for three months.

Magellan's' Voyage

In October 1517 in Seville, Magellan contacted Juan de Aranda, Factor of the Casa de Contratación. Then, following the arrival of his partner, Rui Faleiro, and with the support of Aranda, they presented their project to the Spanish king, Charles I, future Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Magellan's project was particularly interesting, since it would open the "spice route" without damaging relations with the neighbouring Portuguese. The idea was in tune with the times. On 22 March 1518 the king named Magellan and Faleiro captains so that they could travel in search of the Spice Islands in July. He raised them to the rank of Commander of the Order of Santiago. The king granted them:

•    Monopoly of the discovered route for a period of ten years.
•    Their appointment as governors of the lands and islands found, with 5% of the resulting net gains.
•    A fifth of the gains of the travel.
•    The right to levy one thousand ducats on upcoming trips, paying only 5% on the remainder.
•    Granting of an island for each one, apart from the six richest, from which they would receive a fifteenth.

The expedition was funded largely by the Spanish Crown and provided with ships carrying supplies for two years of travel. Expert cartographer Jorge Reinel and Diogo Ribeiro, a Portuguese who had started working for Charles V in 1518 as a cartographer at the Casa de Contratación, took part in the development of the maps to be used in the travel. Several problems arose during the preparation of the trip, including lack of money, the king of Portugal trying to stop them, Magellan and other Portuguese incurring suspicion from the Spanish and the difficult nature of Faleiro. Finally, thanks to the tenacity of Magellan, the expedition was ready. Through the bishop Juan Rodríguez de Fonseca they obtained the participation of merchant Christopher de Haro, who provided a quarter of the funds and goods to barter.

South West Monsoon

The people living in the West Coast and South West  of Sri Lanka experience much of rain, from about end of May to end of September each year. This weather pattern prevails due to the South West Monsoons.

These monsoons will be dealt with in the pages to follow, till then a drizzle of explanation will suffice,

The term Monsoon comes from the Arabic “Mausim”, which means seasonal weather or wind shift.

During the Northern summer the continent of Asia gets very warm resulting in low pressure over it. The lowest recorded so far, being about 996 mb ( millibar)over the North West India. This low being considerably lower than the equatorial low of 1012 mb and, hence the pressure gradient exists from the equator towards North West India. The South East Trade winds blowing from oceanic high of the 30 degrees South Latitude  towards the equatorial low and cross over the equator and blow as a strong South west wind called South West monsoon towards the low over NW India.

The period of the year of SW Monsoon the India Ocean – Arabian sea is from about June to September.

Effects :- Brings heavy rain to West Coast of India, West Bengal region, Bangladesh and Myanmar.

Calibrating and Using A Sextant

Taken from YouTube.

10 Strange World Phenomena Science Cannot Explain!

Back to Sea with a Different Company

I signed of my last ship in Mumbai around the 30^th of June that year. Few weeks after I arrived home, I sent a message to my company indicating I was ready to re-join. There was no response to my message, therefore, I sent another one. There was no response to that, either. Then, I thought to myself, how could they re-employ me because, I have not acted in the interest of the company.

As the writing was on the wall, without waiting any longer, I started to look for jobs with various other companies in Singapore and Hong Kong, but I did not get a proper response from any of them. It was very frustrating to stay at home. Seeing my plight, my father too, tried with some of the people who operated shipping agencies in Colombo to help me get a job.  During that time, unfortunately the supply of Merchant Shipping Officers were higher than the demand. So, I really had to wait for a breakthrough!

I lived with my parents, therefore, I had a place to live and I was well taken care of.  My social life, however was severely hampered due to the ongoing financial situation. It was around this time, my brother who worked overseas, came home on vacation. He usually came during Christmas but, may be for my luck, came earlier. What he told me was that, many of the expatriate staff has requested for leave during Christmas and, he volunteered to take his vacation early and hold fort during the festive season.

During the three weeks my brother was at home, along with some friends we went on a few trips. I was really happy that I had something to do instead of only looking for jobs and calling shipping companies in that region.  During our trips we visited Kandy, Anuradhapura, Sigiriya, Dambulla, etc., 

Finally, my father came to my rescue; following the news he had received that there was ship in the port of Colombo who was urgently looking for a second officer. He had contacted a Director of that Shipping Company, and following this I was called for an interview. It was the 1st of December that year. I was interviewed by a Captain who was the Director of the Company. He was a very Senior Master Mariner and a well-respected person in the Sri Lankan shipping sphere. After a long but informal interview, he recommended me for the job. A day after meeting with him I was signed-on as      the Second Officer on board the ship "San George."  I was paid a reasonable wage. I was happy to be back at work after nearly six months. This ship was on a regular run between Colombo, Kuwait and Bombay. "San George" was owned by a Greek Company and was chartered by a Sri Lankan Shipping Company. On board, except the Captain and the Chief Engineer, all the other Officers and ratings were Sri Lankans.

Temple of the Sacred Tooth relic, Kandy, Sri Lanka

                                                         Sigiriya Rock Fortress

                                                 Ruwanveliseya Stupa, Anuradha pura.

                                                                                                           

                                                               Madhu Church, Mannar.

Some of the 18 Hairpin Bends on Madugoda to Mahiyanga road

Missing from the blogger for few days.

Dear friends,

My Blog was  off for few days due to a technical problem. Please accept my apologies.

John

Captain E.J.Smith Master of RMS Titanic

Born	27 January 1850 Hanley, Staffordshire, England
Died	15 April 1912 (aged 62) Atlantic Ocean
Cause of death	Drowned in the ship; body never recovered
Resting place	41°43′32″N 49°56′49″W
Nationality	British
Occupation	Ship Captain
Employer	White Star Line
Known for	Captain of R.M.S. Titanic
Spouse(s)	Sarah Eleanor Pennington (1887–1912; his death)
Children	Helen Melville Smith (1898–1973) (aged 75)
Parent(s)	Edward Smith Catherine Hancock (nee Marsh)
Notes
Ranks: Commander – RNR Captain – White Star Line Honorific Rank of Commodore, as the White Star Line's most senior Captain

I take a sudden decision to sign-off the ship

Although we believed the ship would be taken to Dubai for repairs, the owners have thought otherwise; repairs be carried out in Mumbai. 

Following instructions received from the owners, the ship proceeded to Mumbai for Dry Docking in order to carry out repairs. The Ship arrived in Mumbai after about seven days of sailing from Aden under the Monsoonal weather conditions. After about three days it was dry docked and we were informed that a formal inquiry will be conducted by the Mercantile Marine Department Surveyor in Bombay and also by the Class Surveyor. The Captain got very worried following receipt of the news of the formal inquiry. He came to my cabin and sat down in my day bunk and told me "I have six children and I do not want to lose this job. Please help me out in this situation". Then I told him "Sir, I really do not know how I could help you but whatever I could do I would certainly do for you”.

Captain, then called the chief officer, and asked him to help him. He immediately agreed and we had a meeting in the Captain’s day room. It was the first time he offered a drink to Chief Officer and I. Whatever had happened in the past, the Chief Officer was with me to help the Captain.

That night, I did not get any sleep. However, I decided to sign-off and proceed home. Early in the morning, I met with the captain and chief officer and informed them about my decision.  Thereafter, I sent in the request through the Master to the owners. It was granted and my repatriation was arranged.  Also, I told the captain, I took this decision as I did not want to lie to the surveyors, especially the MMD surveyor. Therefore, I was ready to sacrifice my job.

Around 9.00 a.m. the following day the Surveyors boarded the ship with the Senior Superintendent of the Company. While the Surveyors were interviewing the Captain, the Agent came on board, and I left the ship with him, and proceeded to airport.  The Superintendent was not happy to let me go but there was nothing much he could do about it. The Captain met me at the gangway as I was leaving and he was full of tears, embraced me and thanked me. But inside me I knew that my leaving was not going to do much good to him as there was more than required evidence to prove that the ship had gone off course and contacted a submerged reef.

I called my father from Mumbai airport and told him, I would be arriving in Colombo in about four hours. He was very surprised about the early sign-off, and said he will meet me at the airport. All the travelling expenses were deducted from my balance of wages and I had very little money left with me when I reached home.

My father, mother and sister were there at the Colombo Airport. They were very happy to see me back. They also asked the question why I had come so suddenly! My father was really sick when I came home as he had very high blood pressure and was under treatment.

Once my father was in a position to listen to me, I told him why I had to leave the ship and come home much earlier. He did not make any comments but by observing his facial expressions, and knowing my father’s way of thinking; I knew he was not in favor of my action, and did not endorse the same!

3 photos of port of Mumbai

                                                        Mazagon docks in Mumbai

Ship running aground in Jeddah

With a full load of cargo on board "Regent Venture" we crossed the Suez Canal and entered the Red Sea. The first port of call for discharging was Jeddah in Saudi Arabia. I was used to the style of British and Indian Captains. They were very confident in all areas of their job. Unfortunately, I did not see that quality in the Master on board. He panicked and started to shout at all of us on the bridge when approaching ports. Another thing that I observed was being from the same nationality the Captain and Chief Officer were not on talking terms.

The Chief Officer also had the Master’s license and had commanded vessels prior to joining this company. Because it was his first contract with our Company he had been employed as the Chief Officer. He was a competent officer.

There were two approaching routes to Jeddah, one from the North and the other from the South. Whichever it was, the approach to Jeddah was a tricky one, especially during night. The vessel approached Jeddah in the night, around 8.00 p.m. At my request, the Chief Officer remained on the bridge but he was only an observer. The Captain asked me what the Chief Officer was doing on the bridge after his duty hours. I told him that the Chief Officer had gone to Jeddah as Master a few times and I requested him to be around. He did not ask any further questions!

Thereafter, in their language the Captain spoke with the Chief Officer. The ship was approaching the port of Jeddah and the engines were on standby. Suddenly, for no reason the Captain made some course alterations. While doing that it was difficult to plot a good position and suddenly we felt that the ship hit something and listed to the Port side (Left side). Immediately the rudder was put to the opposite side and the ship up righted and steadied. At this time, I plotted the ship’s position and it came on the side of a reef. This was confirmed by the Chief Officer’s position. Also both the positions confirmed that the ship was out of the approach route. At this moment the Captain panicked and the Chief Officer took over. Under his instructions, the ship approached the Pilot Boarding Ground and the Pilot boarded. The time was around 10.00 p.m. The Captain informed the Pilot that he suspected that the ship hit a submerged object on the Northern approach route. Then the Pilot immediately informed the control tower. In the meantime, the Captain was trying convince the Pilot that the ship was always on the safe approach route. Under panic situations the Captain’s behavior was found to be very unprofessional. The Navy and Police Officers were waiting on the wharf at the time of berthing the ship. The Captain refused to accept the position given by the Chief Officer and myself. He showed everyone the positions he had recorded. An inquiry was held during this time and a Senior Naval Officer of the Saudi Navy checked the positions on the charts used. After taking down statements from the Captain and the Chief Officer they left.

As the cargo was being discharged, it was found that the No. 1 and 2 Cargo holds were filled with water to a height of about two meters. Following the detection of water in the holds, the ship was shifted to anchorage. As the ship was classed with Lloyds Register of Shipping, a LR Surveyor for Jeddah boarded the vessel. Following the survey, he advised the damaged cargo to be discharged and the ship to be dry docked for repairs within one month. We also had cargo for Aden. The damaged cargo was discharged in to barges at Jeddah anchorage. Temporary repairs were carried out on the Surveyor’s advice. On completion of temporary repairs, the ship sailed for Aden and discharged all the remaining cargo.

Old port of Jeddah

Aerial view of the port of Jeddah also showing many dangerous submerged reefs on the approach route.

My experiences durng the transit of Suez canal.

On completion of loading at the port of Koper in Yugoslavia the vessel sailed for Port Said. At Port Said, the vessel had to wait for a few hours to join the South Bound convoy in the Suez Canal. Each time we crossed the canal we came across all kinds of locals who came on board. They came in small boats and, there were hundreds of them right around the ship. All the crew in addition to their duties had to do security watches, because of the people on those boats.

I was the duty officer on board at that time, and two men came with some bags and asked me who I was? I said "I am the Second Officer." Then one of them said, "We are Suez Canal electricians, I hope you know how important is the job we have to perform on board". So I asked them what I could do for them?  That was definitely the biggest mistake I made. One of them said we want you to arrange two cabins with linen, some refreshments and other meals immediately, coffee as and when we want. It was a long list. When he was almost finishing his list, the Deputy Harbor Master who visited the ship was leaving and he overheard part of the conversation. He stopped there and spoke to them in Arabic. Then he turned towards me and advised me to take care of them but that it was not necessary to give everything that they were asking for. That made my day!

I arranged some snacks and coffee for the Electricians.

Just a few minutes later, one of them came back to me, and this time, he had a different request. He asked me for a place in the accommodation to display some of the articles which he had brought for sale. These people were really very funny characters, I thought! I told him he cannot open his shop inside the accommodation but he could do that on deck, somewhere.

Next what I saw was, he had opened up his shop with all his goodies in the junior officers’ accommodation.  It was very difficult to handle these people. Sometimes, I found it was a great waste of time, talking to them! Because there was no end to their requirements.

After each transit of the Suez Canal, there was not a single person on board who was not exhausted.

Old port of Port Said

                                                  Many small boats around the Naval ship

                

Showing the Suez Canal many years ago

Re-joining A Ship

On completion of studies at the INC, I returned to London. It was the month of December, and the Christmas feeling was setting in.

I had a good Christmas in London with relations and friends. There were parties almost everyday! In February the following year I was informed by the company where I had my onboard training, to be prepared to re-join.   

I left London on the 14th of March 1979, and arrived in Venice after about three hours of flying. On arrival at the Venice Airport, our local agent was there to meet me. After completing arrival formalities, the agent took me to the ship. Prior to leaving, I was made to understand by our London office that most of the officers including the Captain were from the Philippines. It was the first time that I was going to work with them. When I went on board the Captain was not present. Therefore, I reported to the Chief Officer. Fortunately for me the Purser was a Sri Lankan. He had a long name, and hence all officers called him Thanam.

Thanam was very happy to have me on board as he was the only Sri Lankan on that ship prior to my joining. He immediately ordered the Chief Cook to prepare some dinner for us and showed me my cabin. The ship did not have a Second Officer when I joined. The Third Officer had been doing the second officer’s duties while the Cadet had been doing the third officer's duties. Therefore, my cabin was vacant and ready. After a few drinks, Thanam and I had dinner and went to sleep.

In the morning I went up to see the Captain and he was in a very bad mood. He was very rude to me but I remained calm and handed over my appointment letter to him. I immediately understood his attitude and also thought that I was going to have some rough weather, on board, for the next few months. That's a seafarers life!

However, our relationship improved with time, and it was not as bad as I thought. From Venice the ship sailed for Koper in Yugoslavia. On the first night there, the Chief Officer joined Thanam and me to go ashore. Three of us went into a night club and had a good time. Thereafter, Rudolfo T. Nunez, the Chief Officer, became friendly with me and was good company, too.

Photo of the ship

Photos of old port of Venice

Shifting from London to Cork, Ireland

Towards the end of Summer holidays that year, I shifted to the Irish Nautical College and continued with the rest of my Nautical studies. INC was a part of the Cork regional Technical College at that time.

According to my study program, I had to do some short courses, as well. I left London for Cork, and went to Swansea by train and took the cross channel ferry from there. Prior arrangements had been made for me to stay with an Irish family as a paying guest. I knew in advance I had a place ready for me in Cork.The ferry arrived in Cork and berthed alongside around 8.00 a.m. that morning. At the ferry station, I boarded a shuttle service coach and came into the city, and I took a taxi from there to where I was going to live during my sojourn in Cork -- Crowley’s place. When I arrived at Crowley’s place in Bishop’s Town it was about 9.30 a.m. On arrival at the address, I rang the doorbell. A very pleasant looking lady, possibly, in her mid-fifties opened the door and greeted me. It was Mrs. Patricia Crowley. While I was paying the taxi driver she had already moved my bags into the house.

Thereafter, both of us had tea and a very long conversation during which time we exchanged a lot of information. Patricia Crowley, told me that her husband, Michael, was away in their farm in County Kerry. Usually, he left home on Monday mornings and returned either on Thursday or Friday. They had a son and a daughter, who were both married and settled down in the U.S. She went on to say that it was more for company than money that she and Michael decided to register with the College to have a paying guest from time to time. She knew well in advance of my visit and was looking forward to my arrival.

Michael Crowley came home that evening. On my first meeting with him I thought that he resembled the famous film star, Humphrey Bogart. I told them that I would like to go to the "Anchor House," that evening, the only social club that I knew of in Cork. Immediately Patricia told me that they had already planned to take me to the Country Club, which was a very exclusive place and reservations had already been made. I changed my mind and joined them. As time passed by both of them started to treat me as one of their own. Although according to my agreement I had to pay them 18 pounds a week, a few days later Patricia told me to only pay 8 pounds a week. She helped with the laundry, ironed my clothes and also gave me sandwiches to take to College. In short, they treated me like their own child. From the Crowley’s place to College there was a good ten-minute walk. Pat (Patricia) one day, told me to take her car as it was not used much. I politely declined the offer as I did not have a driving license.

God is so great for getting me to live in Cork with a family like the Crowley’s. This, I will always remember. 

Photo of a house similar to that of the Crowley's

Photos of Cork Regional Technical College

Rogue Waves Associated with Agulha Current

Rogue waves

The south-east coast of South Africa is on the main shipping route between the Middle-East and Europe/the U.S. and several large ships sustain major damage because of rogue waves in the area where these waves occasionally can reach a height of more than 30 m (98 ft). Some 30 larger ships were sunk by rogue waves along the South African east-coast between 1981 and 1991

Agulhas Current - Note One

The sources of the Agulhas Current are the East Madagascar Current, the Mozambique Current and a recirculated part of the south-west Indian subgyre (a smaller circular current within a gyre)south of Madagascar. The flow of the Agulhas Current is directed by the topography. The current follows the continental shelf from Maputo to the tip of the Agulhas Bank (250 km south of Cape Agulhas). Here the momentum of the current overcomes the vorticity balance holding the current to the topography and the current leaves the shelf.

The core of the current is defined as where the surface velocities reaches 100 cm/s (39 in/s), which gives the core an average width of 34 km (21 mi). The mean peak speed is 136 cm/s (54 in/s), but the current can reach 245 cm/s (96 in/s.

As the Agulhas Current flows south along the African east coast, it tends to bulge inshore frequently, a deviation from the current's normal path known as Agulhas Current meanders (ACM). These bulges are occasionally (1-7 times per year) followed by a much larger offshore bulge, known as Natal pulses (NP). Natal pulses move along the coast at 20 km (12 mi) per day. An ACM can bulge up to 20 km (12 mi) and a NP up to 120 km (75 mi) from the current's mean position. The AC passes 34 km (21 mi) offshore and an ACM can reach 123 km (76 mi) offshore. When the AC meanders, its width broadens from 88 km (55 mi) to 125 km (78 mi) and its velocity weakens from 208 cm/s (82 in/s) to 136 cm/s (54 in/s). An ACM induces a strong inshore counter-current.

Large-scale cyclonic meanders known as Natal pulses are formed as the Agulhas Current reaches the continental shelf on the South African east-coast (i.e. the eastern Agulhas Bank off Natal). As these pulses moves along the coast on the Agulhas Bank, they tend to pinch off Agulhas rings from the Agulhas Current. Such a ring shedding can be triggered by a Natal pulse alone, but sometimes meanders on the Agulhas Return Current merge to contribute to the shedding of an Agulhas ring.

One Very Unplesant Incident

Ship’s Radar Observer’s course was a part of our study program. We did this on board our training ship "Sir John Cass". The training ship was berthed in Rotherhithe. Another Sri Lankan student joined our batch only to follow the Radar Observer’s course. It was a two-week course, and every morning by 9.00 a.m. we were all on the ship. Soon after that, the ship left the berth and proceeded down the river Thames and returned only by 5.00 p.m.

On Friday of the first week of the Radar Observer course, the Sri Lankan student, Ram, and I boarded the train at Rotherhithe to come to central London. There were a few dock workers in the train and they were drunk. One of them came close to us and said "You black bastards you are smelling!" I understood the situation and I just kept quiet. Ram was new in London and retaliated with some harsh words. I tried my best to advise Ram to be quiet but he would not listen. At this time, two others joined and started assaulting both of us. I pulled Ram and jumped out of the train when it stopped at the next station. Those men also jumped out and continued to hit us. Ram was bleeding from his nose. So many people passed by and nobody, repeat nobody, even turned to look at what was going on. A Chinese gentleman came to our rescue and then those three men moved out. We thanked him and thanked God for sending him. Ram was trying to maintain a very brave face but I knew that he was in pain. There was blood all over his shirt. He was staying in Wembley park and he took the train in that direction while I boarded the train that brought me to Finchley Central. That was one very unpleasant incident that took place during the time I was studying in London.

                                   Section of the Rotherhithe Underground Station in London

The First Phase of Academicals

Highest sea-going qualification for the deck officers is the Master mariner. The Extra Masters which is like a Ph.D. is more of an academic qualification which was highly recognized, worldwide.

For Merchant Navy Officers there are phases of academicals for which we must enter a Nautical College. During our time, the first phase of studies was to prepare us to sit the exam to obtain the Second Mate Foreign Going Certificate. From the time I joined my first ship as an Officer cadet, I had accumulated sea time of about three and a half years which enabled me to enter college for the academicals. The required sea time was three years and three months. After looking at many options, I, finally opted to do my studies at Sir John Cass College in London and also at the Irish Nautical College in Cork, Ireland. During the time I worked on board I saved some money for my studies. But, later I found that was not enough and my parents and some friends helped me with the finances from time to time while I was studying in London and in Ireland. 

I joined Sir John Cass College in February 1978. During the time of my studies in London, I lived with some of my cousins in Finchley Central. We shared an apartment, cooked our meals and managed our lives.  During the summer holidays, I worked in a bakery in the Wembley area. I could not save much from what I earned because with that money I had a good summer with my cousins and friends.

It took around ten months for me to complete the first phase of my studies and sit the exam.

I passed my exam on December 16^th that year. It was great because it was two days before my birthday. Soon after I passed the exam, I was offered a job with a British Shipping Company but since my Visa was only for the purpose of studies in the UK I was unable to join. After spending Christmas and the New Year with my relations and friends in London I flew to Venice to join a ship owned by the company that I had my training.  

                                                  Sir John Cass College in London

                                               Photo of Sir John Cass Training ship.

Marine Sextant

With the sextant for determining latitude and the chronometer for longitude, sailors by the 1800s were able to navigate the high seas with great precision.


For millennia, as sailors from the Phoenicians to the Polynesians knew, the heavens remained the best way to find one's north-south position. Increasingly sophisticated devices were designed over the centuries to measure the height of the sun and stars over the horizon. The gnomon or sun-shadow disk operated like a sundial, enabling the user to determine his latitude by the length of the sun's shadow cast on a disk floating level in water. The Arabian Kamal was a rectangular plate that one moved closer or farther from one's face until the distance between the North star and the horizon exactly corresponded to the plate's upper and lower edges. The distance the plate lay away from the face—measured by a string tied to the center of the plate and held at the other end to the tip of the nose—determined the latitude.

In the Middle Ages, sailors relied on the astrolabe, a disc of metal that one held suspended by a small ring. The disc had a scale with degrees and a ruler for measuring the height of an astronomical body. Other medieval mariners preferred the cross-staff, a T-shaped device whose base was held up to the eye. One measured the sun's height by pulling the slid able top of the T toward one's eye until the sun lay at the top and the horizon at the bottom. Since blindness resulted from frequent use, the explorer John Davis invented the back-staff in 1595, which enabled one to get the same measurement with one's back to the sun. The sextant was the most advanced of these devices, allowing users to determine their latitude to within a sea mile or two, even from a swaying deck.

In the years after the sextant was invented in 1731, many held out hope that it would aid in east-west navigation as well—that is, in finding longitude. Sailors could employ the sextant to figure longitude using the lunar-distance method, but with the astronomical tables of the 18th century, the process could take several hours to work out one's position—not remotely good enough for sea travel. In the end, it was the dogged clockmaker, John Harrison, who solved the longitude problem with his chronometers. And today, the precocious step-child of these highly accurate clocks, the Global Positioning System, has finally proved the Roman dramatist Seneca right, when he wrote in the first century:

 There will come an age in the far-off years

When Ocean shall unloose the bonds of things,

When the whole broad earth shall be revealed....

Dead Reckoning

This ancient form of navigation known as dead reckoning begins with a known position, or fix, which is then advanced, mathematically or directly on the chart, by means of recorded heading, speed, and time.

The navigator finds a position by measuring the course and distance they have sailed from some known point. Starting from a port, the navigator measures the distance from that point on a chart. Each day’s end position would be the starting point for the next day’s course and distance-measurement.

The navigator plots his 9am position, indicated by the triangle, and, using his course and speed, estimates his position at 9:30am and 10am.

Without an accurate way to tell time, dead reckoning was notoriously inaccurate in the open ocean, making Columbus’s feats all the more remarkable.

Combating depression in seafareres

Even though we don’t always like to talk about it, depression is a very real condition that can affect the way you live. It can have an impact on your work performance, your mental and physical health, and your relationships.

For seafarers, depression can be especially prevalent, due to the long periods at sea, loneliness, and separation from loved ones. The stigma associated with depression and other mental illnesses is finally fading away, and there is no shame in seeking help. There are a few things you can do to help combat depression on board when outside counseling and guidance are not available.

1. Recognize that it can be difficult to live, work and relax in the same space

Living in close quarters is difficult, no matter who is involved. When you live, work, and relax in that shared space, finding time for yourself can be a challenge. Tempers may flare, frustrations may arise, and small problems can seem like big ones. Take a moment to recognize that what you’re doing is hard; there’s no way around it. Cut yourself a break when you need it.

2. Find healthy outlets for your emotions

As emotions build among crew members on a ship, it’s easy to manifest these feelings in unhealthy ways. Although it can be cathartic, fighting, shouting, throwing objects, and losing your cool isn’t a manageable way to function. Neither is keeping your emotions bottled up inside, which can put a strain on your mental health.  Look for healthy outlets like writing down how you feel or channeling your emotions into exercise.

3. Seek out someone to talk to when you’re onshore

Many ports have resources for seafarers who need someone to talk to.  Seek refuge in these facilities, where you can talk to a minister, counselor, or even a fellow seafarer. At Port Everglades, we offer multi-faith ministry services that can lend an ear to your feelings.  You do not have to be religious to seek the help of ministry services, we counsel and support mariners of all different faiths and backgrounds. Talking out your emotions can be a healthy way of dealing with them, and can better prepare you for the next time you feel low while at sea.

4. Take every opportunity to communicate with friends and family

Time is a precious commodity, so use it well. Regular communication with the ones you love – and who love you – can help keep you in a positive frame of mind. When possible, schedule these conversations ahead of time so you have something to look forward to. Use whatever form of technology is available to you, from a phone call to a video chat or even a simple email. Even a brief conversation can have a lasting positive impact on your emotional state.  

Reposted From Seafarers' House at Port Everglades.org

Ship called at the port of Palermo

The ship called at the port of Palermo. Patrick being a die hard Catholic wanted to visit some old churches and I joined him. One of the churches we visited was the Cathedral of Palermo.

The stay in the port of Palermo was not long but a good one. As it was walking distance to most parts of the main city, every evening Patrick and I went out and enjoyed an Italian cuisine for dinner.

                                                                     Port of Palermo           

                                                                 Cathedral of Palermo

Near collision situation South of Messina Straits

The ship crossed the Suez Canal, and was on the way to Palermo. Just about a day before arrival in Palermo, the ship was approaching Messina Strait. The Strait of Messina is a narrow passage between the eastern tip of Sicily and the western tip of Calabria in the south of Italy. It was a clear day and I was the Officer in Charge of the navigational watch. The time was about 2pm. I saw another ship coming and as per the Radar it should pass around 1.5 n/miles on our Port side (Left side of our own ship).

When the vessel is in transit of this kind of narrow passages, the Captain usually visits the bridge and remains there. The Captain’s presence on the bridge does not relieve the Officer on Watch from his duties, unless he verbally informs the Officer that he is taking over the watch. Therefore, I continued with my work. Our ship was heading in a Northerly course and was around 7 N/ miles South of the strait. The ship ahead of ours was coming down. The distance between the two ships were approximately 5 N/miles. When the other ship got closer, as much as 2 N/miles, there was a sudden movement and the bow of our ship swung and almost head towards the other one. The Captain informed me that he was taking over. He immediately ordered the helm, "Hard over to Starboard” and increased the speed to Emergency Full Ahead. The other ship also altered course away from our ship, but the ships were very close to each other when they finally passed. And, definitely much less than 1 N/Mile. However, a dangerous, and a possible collision was averted due to the timely action by both ships. After so many years have passed I still remember this incident.

The reason for the sudden swinging of our ship could have been due to following:

 ‘The Naruto Whirlpools

The Naruto Straits are where the Seto Inland Sea meets the Kii Channel. These straits are amongst the three most dramatic in the world, standing alongside the Straits of Messina between Sicily and the Italian Peninsula, and the Seymour Narrows of Vancouver Island in Canada. The difference in height between tides here can reach up to 1.5m, with the currents moving at 15 to 20km/h. This generates whirlpools ranging up to 20m in diameter. You won't want to miss these wonders of nature - some of the largest in the world! The best time to see them is one and a half hours around the high or low tides. Prime viewing season is during tides in spring and autumn.’

The above is taken from a report about these unusual and dangerous situations at sea.

Have any of you encountered such situations? Please comment.

                                                                 Photo of a Whirlpool